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Go For Faux Yarn

Lion Brand Go for Faux - faux fur knit blanket - free knitting pattern

If you follow me on Instagram then you’ve probably noticed I’ve been posting photos of a fur yarn. It’s called Go For Faux and it’s sold by Lion Brand Yarn. It’s very on-trend for this Winter. There’s faux fur blankets and jackets, and cropped sweaters popping up everywhere. I’m working on a Go For Faux blanket and finished a simple pullover sweater. I used different colors for each project and had slightly different experiences with them.

fullsizeoutput_493a.jpeg

It sheds. That’s been the number one question. My experience so far is some colors shed more than others. The pastels (blue, white, & pink) seem to have more shedding than Bear and Pomeranian. I knit a sweater (that took a total of 2 evenings!) in the Blue Bengal colorway and it created a disaster in my apartment. The photo below is an example, but doesn’t truly convey the full extent of the shedding.

IMG_2075.jpeg

I didn’t mind the yarn getting all over me since I expected the shedding before casting on. The cats cats didn’t seem to care either. The dog and the boyfriend might have had more of a problem. It got in the dog’s mouth and the boyfriend found it was irritating his face.

How soft the fabric is and how fast the sweater went made me feel ok about the fur particles flying around everywhere while I was knitting. Sort of an ends justify the means kinda thing. I used US size 15 needles and 6 skeins of yarn to complete my sweater. Rick lovingly calls it my “Sexy Blue Carpet Sweater.”

After I was done assembling the sweater I tossed it in the wash. Delicate cycle (cold water) with regular laundry soap and then in the dryer on delicate for a half hour. The lint tray was FULL! But the sweater held up and didn’t shrink. The shedding seemed minimal. I rubbed it on my black leggings to see what happened and there was some fuzz, but none of the flying clumps of faux fur that was happening pre-washing.

I wore the Sexy Blue sweater to work this week. It’s warm! In the office I was actually wishing I’d brought a t-shirt or a flannel to put on instead of the sweater. Since it’s 100% polyester it doesn’t have much breathability. If I’d knit tighter I might have died of a hot flash. But hey, if I was out in the snow and wanted to look good I’d probably have been pretty comfortable.

Unfortunately I wasn’t super impressed with how the fabric held up on the sleeves. The body was fine. But the sleeve of my right arm, which was gliding across my desk all day using the computer or writing, got very worn looking. Picture a little matted and not “fresh” looking. The fur was pressed down and slightly clumpy.

Lion Brand Go for Faux - faux fur knit blanket - free knitting pattern

The blanket using the Bear colorway is amazing! I’m almost done and will have used 12 skeins in total. This color doesn’t shed like the blue. It’s soft and fluffy and will become my new favorite blanket. I’ll have to fight the cats and dog for it, though. They’re all already trying to claim it as their own! I have to ship the blanket off for photographs once I’m done knitting. I’ll be counting the days until I get it back!


Pros and Cons

  • Con – It sheds like crazy
  • Con – It adds more pounds to your figure than a camera
  • Con – High friction areas get matted quickly
  • Pro – It’s super soft
  • Pro – It works up crazy fast
  • Pro – It’s on trend
  • Pro – It’s machine wash/dry
  • Pro – It’s vegan! The fur look without harming animals

Ending Thoughts

Would I use it again? Yes. I’m actually already planning another design that uses the Chinchilla colorway as an edging only. I wouldn’t use it again for a full sweater due to the sleeves. Blankets, pillows, accessories, and garment accents/edges are what I think Go For Faux is best suited for. I’m not sure I would personally want to crochet this yarn. 1) I just generally like knitting better and 2) I feel like it might be hard to see where to put the crochet hook. With that said, I have not actually tried crocheting it.

Mama In A Stitch did work up a crochet pattern for the yarn. You can get the pattern on her website or the kit (yarn and pattern) on LionBrand.com. If you plan on working with Go For Faux it’s worth taking a read through her post to form a fuller picture before diving in.

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Piedmont Raglan: Test Knit Call!

I know a few of you out there have been waiting on this design. It’s ready for testing! Interested? Email me at: fiddleknitsdesigns@gmail.com

I’d consider this a Fall or Spring sweater. For transitional weather. Based on the sleeve length and the yarn I used. Of course, it’s perfectly acceptable as a winter sweater as well depending on your style and location.

For the test you you may use any yarn you like to achieve the gauge in the pattern. I’d like to have this fully tested by the end of the year. I know we’re in full blown holiday season, so I’m flexible on the dates. What I do ask of test knitters is semi regular check ins with progress updates. Something brief on a weekly basis is fine. Just so I know the project is still in the loop and don’t need to post another call for more testers.

This isn’t a super secret knit, so do feel free to post and share your WIPs as you wish. If adding a project to Ravelry please tag with “fiddleknits” and “piedmont”. Once tested this will be a free pattern available via my blog and I will post it on Ravelry.

Deadline: December 16 (Can be flexible if testers maintains communication on progress.)
I’m looking for some folks willing to test knit or proofread a raglan sweater pattern. I know this is a pretty hectic time of year for most people, so I’m giving what I hope is a good deadline and I’m willing to be flexible if you want to do it, but need an extra week or two.

NOTE: Please feel free to use your favorite yarn that lets you achieve gauge.

Yarn
2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4) cakes Lion Brand Yarn, Comfy Cotton Blend
[392 yards, 200 grams, CYC #3, 50% Cotton / 50% Polyester]
Color: Whipped Cream

Needles
US size 7 / 4.5mm 32” circular needle and set of DPNs for body and sleeves
US size 8 / 5mm 32” circular needlefor hem

Gauge
16 sts & 26 rnds = 4” in stockinette stitch

Sizes
Hip: 36 (42, 48, 54, 54)”
Bust: 36 (40, 46, 50, 52)”
Length to underarm: 22 (23, 23.5, 24, 24)”
Sleeve Length: 12”
Upper arm: 14 (14, 15, 15, 15)”

Skill Level: Intermediate

—————-

The sleeves are 3/4 length. If you wish to adjust yours to be short or long sleeve please do so, but also please check pattern as is and make sure it reads correctly. Then modify your as desired so you’ll enjoy your finished sweater!

Communications may take place through this thread so you can discuss with fellow testers. You may also email me. Please try and check in at least weekly with progress updates. A finished photo would be great at the end!

This is not a secret knit, so feel free to create a project page. Once the pattern is listed on Ravelry I would like your project linked to the pattern so Ravelers can see finished items of the design.

Project tags: FiddleKnits, Piedmont

I do work a full time job, but I will check in to this thread at least once a day and will answer questions and comments as quickly as possible.

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Test Knit Call: The Remake Raglan

raglan sweater knit in Lion Brand wool-ease yarn

Love test knitting? Here’s one for you then.

I just finished writing up the Remake Raglan sweater and need some eyes on it. Once checked it will become a free pattern available via my blog and Ravelry.

Here’s what you need to know…

  • Worked from the bottom up.
  • The yarn is Lion Brand Wool-Ease Worsted. But test knitters can use their favorite yarn.
    • If you do use Lion Brand Yarn you’ll need:Black: 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) skeins

      Oxford Grey: 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) skeins

      Grey Heather: 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) skeins

  • Gauge: 20 sts & 28 rnds = 4” in stockinette stitch
  • It’s striped, but feel free to make it a solid color.
  • Finished bust sizes are: 36 (39, 44, 47, 52)”
  • Sleeves are ¾ length. Make them longer if you wish.
  • Back hem is 2″ longer than front.
  • Front hem hits at the hips.
  • Neckline is wide and semi off the shoulder, but a few extra decrease rounds in the shaping section easily closes that up for a more modest neckline.
  • Deadline: Thanksgiving

Interested? Email me! Fiddleknitsdesigns@gmail.com

Can’t make the commitment to the deadline, but still willing to look the pattern over? That’s fine too! Extra eyes are always welcome. Once you’ve stared at a pattern so long all the words and numbers get jumbled up. Fresh eyes are a huge help!

The skill level on this is around advanced beginner or low level intermediate. It has some basic shaping, color changes, and working in the round.

I feel like I usually hear about top down raglans. They’re great, but I’ve always had an issue with them. It’s easy to begin and increase and try on as you go. Takes some guesswork out. However, at the end I absolutely cannot stand working the sleeves! Turning the entire sweater around and around as you work the small sleeve circumference feels cumbersome to me. So I’ve embraced the bottom up raglan. Still working in the round, still a well fitting classic shape. But this way once you attach those sleeves you’re on the home stretch and the knitting goes by crazy fast. Unless I’m working a cap sleeve design, I don’t plan on going back to the top down structure.

Next up: the next sweater up for testing will be Piedmont. I know a few of you have been patiently (or impatiently lol) waiting to see that one. Expect a test knit call within the next few days.

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On A Roll With Raglans

I don’t know if it’s the cool weather kicking in or what, but I’ve been on a serious sweater kick recently. And so far they’re all raglans. Bottom up (because I hate flipping the whole sweater around to work the sleeves of a top down raglan). I’m on my third sweater in about a month. All are my own design. The goal is that they will all be free patterns.

comfy cotton blend yarn from Lion BrandThe first sweater is Piedmont. It’s worked in Comfy Cotton Blend from Lion Brand Yarn. The body features reverse stockinette and the sleeves are traditional stockinette. The ribbed decrease line of the raglan sleeves joins the two textures.

I made the sleeves ¾ length because I’m constantly pushing my long sleeves up out of the way anyway. I like having my wrists exposed. Unless I’m snuggling in for some knitting and kitty cuddles. In which case I’m wearing an oversized sweatshirt and not a hand knit sweater anyway.

raglan sweater in the petite wool from we are knitters

The second sweater is Down Port. This short sleeve cropped sweater works up in no time using We Are Knitters Petite Wool and size 10.5 needles. Even though I designed it cropped you can easily add length prior to the waist shaping. My version used 3 skeins of Black and 1 black/white twist and 1 yellow.

The third sweater is currently on my needles. This one is a striped raglan in Lion Brand’s Wool-Ease Worsted. I used this yarn waaaaaaayyy back in the day when I was first discovering knitting. At this point it’s about 14 years ago. Frightening thought.

I haven’t quite figured out how I’m working the stripe sequence on this one. Currently I’m thinking of alternating between the main color and coordinating color 1 until after the waist shaping. Then switching to Coordinating color 1 and 2. Then just a little bit at the end with colors 2 and 3. Sleeves will be 3/4 length like I did for the Piedmont sweater.

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My [current] Top 3 Places to Spend Money on Yarn

I have 3 favorite mass market online yarn suppliers that I stalk and shop from on a regular basis. This list changes, but it’s accurate for the past couple months at least. Until I find a new supplier to feed my addiction. 😬 You might be surprised at the combination of shops. Or maybe not. They’re different, and between all 3 I can pretty much cover any project I’m dreaming up.

1. We Are Knitters
This one is a new obsession and currently highly stalked. (I just completed a design using some of their Pima Cotton in Terra-cotta.) I love the simplicity and high quality of their yarns. The patterns are inspirational, but nothing I need as they are mostly basic shapes I can complete without a pattern. However, I do often buy yarn as a kit from them because of the deals they run. And why not? An extra pattern laying around never hurt. Plus the packaging is so cute. Yarn, printed pattern, a garment label, yarn needles, and [optional] crochet hook or knitting needles all come packaged in a heavy duty brown paper bag with a color photo on the front displaying what design the kit is. A+ on the marketing to We Are Knitters.

Favorite Yarn: The MeriPaca

We are knitters the meri paca yarn
We Are Knitters, The Meri Paca Yarn


2. Knit Picks
KP and I go pretty far back. When I was just starting out as a novice knitwear designer they were one of the first companies to back me up and give me a chance to prove myself. For that they will always have a spot in my heart no matter what. Plus they’re really just super awesome people. I met some of the staff this Winter at Vogue Knitting Live and I was not let down. Over the 9+ years since I published my first design with them I’ve had the opportunity to correspond with lots of the staff at KP and they’ve all been a pleasure to work with.

If you need a good yarn that’s not going to break the bank you’ll be able to find something on KnitPicks.com. They used to be strictly plainer yarns. The basic wool and acrylic and cotton. However, as the years go by they’re branching out into all sorts of exciting new fiber combinations. (WonderFluff is like holding kittens on clouds.)

Favorite Yarn: Color Mist, Swish Worsted

Knit picks Color Mist yarn
Knit Picks Color Mist yarn

3. Lion Brand Yarn
If you follow my Instagram (@FiddleKnitsDesigns) you’ll see I use Lion Brand pretty frequently. This is relatively new for me. We Are Knitters is on the higher end, Knit Picks falls comfortably in the middle, and Lion Brand brings in a good affordable option. It’s solid yarn. Most of the offerings are all, or nearly all, manmade fiber. They do have the LB Collection which brings in more natural and higher end fibers. It is, however, online available at their NYC retail store or directly through LionBrand.com. While some yarnies turn up their nose at manmade box-store yarns, I think there is a time and place for them in my project lineup. Good acrylics are what I want for blankets and every day type garments that will endure a lot of wear. Sometimes I want to make things that I don’t want to feel like I have to treat like an heirloom. Give me a sweater I can pull on quickly, get a little sweaty in, and toss into the washing machine.

Favorite Yarn: Flikka/Comfy Cotton Blend, ZZ Twist, and Feels Like Butta

Ikon brand Flikka yarn
Lion Brand, Flikka yarn


So there you have it. My current 3 favorite go-to brands. What are your top 3? Do you usually stay in a niche? Or do you have favorites for different needs? I want to know! Maybe you can introduce me to my next yarn obsession. 😬

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Settling In

I moved! In the last week Rick and I have been settling in to our new apartment. It’s good to be back out on Eastern LI. We’re mostly unpacked. Mostly. All my yarn and needles are still in bins in the craft closest. But I have a set of circulars and a few projects unpacked that I can work on! Of course, the yarn I have out and available I didn’t want to work on. So I got some new yarn. Woe is me.

Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Yarn

Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend in “Whipped Cream”. I cast it on as soon as I brought it home. It’s becoming a bottom-up raglan. Yet another design in progress that I’ll need to photograph and write up so I can release it.

I’m hoping that now, being back out east, I can get back into the swing of semi-regular photoshoots with my sister. With me being in more photos as well. Because I want to make some sweaters in my size!

This current design in progress (DIP?) began with inspiration from a Japanese knitting stitch dictionary my dad gave me for my birthday. I’m using the stitch on the hem and probably will incorporate it into the sleeve somehow. However, the majority of the sweater is worked in plain reverse stockinette stitch in the round. Yes, I know. There are lots of you knitters out there that hate lurking over and over and over again. I’m not one of those knitters. Purling has never bothered me. In fact, sometimes I even like it better than knitting. There. I said it.

If you’re not a purl fan like me then you can flip your work (after the hem detail) to knit the sweater inside out until you get to the sleeves. This lets you knit ever round instead of lurking endless inches. Work as your mood strikes you. Or heck, change the pattern entirely and make the right side in regular stockinette. I’m a big proponent of changing up patterns to make them work for you. So what if it was written on way? You do you!

Lion Brand yarn Comfy Cotton blend

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Bay Shore – A Free Crochet Shawl Pattern

free crochet shawl pattern

If you’re looking for a free, fast, fun crochet project then you’re in the right spot! I whipped up this shawl using Lion Brand Yarn Jeans (acrylic) and Flikka (cotton/acrylic). Jeans yarn is so soft! And Flikka has this awesome retro vibe that I’ve taken to. Check out all the colors. There’s some great ones! And they pair wonderfully with Jeans. Technically the yarns are classified as different weights (Jeans is CYC #4 and Flikka is CYC #3.)

Worked at a loose gauge and only having 42 rows, this shawl works up fast! And its substantial size gives a dramatic effect when worn.

I’ve added tassels to the 3 points of the shawl using Jeans for the main color and Flikka to wrap around the tops of the tassels. This is optional, but it does serve to give extra weight helping to keep the shawl wrapped and hanging down instead of billowing out.

free crochet shawl pattern

Suggested Yarn
2 skeins Lion Brand, Jeans
246 yards, 100 grams, CYC #4
100% Acrylic
Color: “Vintage”

1 skein Lion Brand, Flikka
196 yards, 100 gransm CYC #3
50% Cotton / 50% Polyester
Color: Keepsake

Hook
US P-15, 10mm

Gauge
10 hdc = 4”

Notions
Yarn needle for weaving ends
Cardboard for wrapping tassels (optional)

Finished Size
One Size, approximately 70” wingspan x 32” depth


free crochet shawl pattern

The Pattern

With Jeans yarn, chain 4, join to form ring.

Ch 2, work 17 hdc into ring, turn – 17 sts

Row 1: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 7 hdc, 3 hdc in next st,
7 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 21 sts

Row 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc in next st] 4 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 hdc in next st,
[ch 1, skip next st, hdc in next st] 4 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st, turn – 25 sts

Row 3: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-1 space] 5 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next ch-1 space] 5 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2hdc in last st, turn – 27 sts

Row 4: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next ch-space, hdc in next st] 5 times, ch 1, 3 hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next ch space, hdc in next st]
6 times, 2 hdc in last st

Row 5: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-1 space] 6 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next ch-1 space] 6 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2hdc in last st, turn

Row 6: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next ch-space, hdc in next st] 6 times, ch 1, 3 hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next ch space, hdc in next st]
7 times, 2 hdc in last st

Row 7: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-1 space] 7 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next ch-1 space] 7 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st, turn

Row 8: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next 15 sts (counting ch-space as 1 st), 3 hdc in next st, hdc in next 15 sts, 2 hdc in last st – 37 sts

Row 9: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 17 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 17 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 41 sts

Row 10: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 19 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 19 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 45 sts

Row 11: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 21 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 21 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 49 sts

Row 12: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 23 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 23 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 53 sts

With Flikka (Color 2)

Row 13: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 25 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 25 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 57 sts

Row 14: Ch 1, slip stitch in every stitch to end (no stitches increased)

With Jeans (Color 1)

Row 15: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 27 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 27 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 61 sts

Row 16: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 29 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 29 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 65 sts

With Flikka (Color 2)

Row 17: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 15 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st, [dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st] 15 times, 2 dc in last st

Row 18: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same space, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 16 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 16 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 19: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 17 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 17 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 20: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 18 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 18 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 21: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 19 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 19 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 22: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 20 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 20 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

With Jeans (Color 1)

Row 23: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 44 hdc (counting ch-1 space as 1 st), 3 hdc in next st, 44 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 95 sts

Row 24: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 46 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 46 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 99 sts

Row 25: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 48 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 48 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 103 sts

Row 26: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 50 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 50 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 107 sts

Row 27: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 52 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 52 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 111 sts

Row 28: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 54 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 54 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 115 sts

Row 29: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st,
hdc in next st] 28 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc in next st] 28 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st

Row 30: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-space] 29 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-space] 29 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st

Row 31: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc in top of next cluster] 29 times, ch 1, 3 hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc in top of next cluster] 29 times, ch 1, skip next st, 1 hdc, 2 hdc in last st

Row 32: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-space] 30 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-space] 30 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st

Row 33: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st,
hdc in top of next cluster] 30 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 hdc in next cluster, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc in top of next cluster] 30 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st

Row 34: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-space] 31 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in
ch-space] 31 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2hdc in last st

Row 35: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 63 hdc (counting ch-1 space as 1 st), 3 hdc in next st, 63 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 133 sts

Row 36: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 65 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 65 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 137 sts

With Flikka (Color 2)

Row 37: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st,
[ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 32 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 32 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 dc in last st

Row 38: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same space, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 34 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 34 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 39: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same space, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 35 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 35 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 40: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same space, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 36 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 36 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

With Jeans (Color 1)

Row 41: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 75 hdc (counting ch-1 space as 1 st), 3 hdc in next st, 75 hdc, 2 hdc in last st

Row 42 (Last Row): Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 77 hdc,
3 hdc in next st, 77 hdc, 2 hdc in last st

Cut yarn and finish by weaving in ends.
Shawl shown features tassels on each pointof the shawl. They are created with 40 wraps around a 4” piece of cardboard.

free crochet shawl pattern


Abbreviations
Ch Chain
Dc Double crochet
Hdc Half double crochet
St(s) Stitch(es)
Tog Together

Bay Shore Shawl

Design Copyright Erica Jackofsky • Fiddle Knits Designs
All Rights Reserved • April 2018
For more information contact: FiddleKnitsDesigns@gmail.com
Photos: Erica Jackofsky • Modeled by Annalee Jackofsky

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Knit it, Drop it

Rewind. It’s one of the new [gasp] acrylic yarns I cant stop playing with. Lightweight, yet speedy quick and bulky. Interesting and fun, but not expensive. This yarn has been keeping my imagination rolling in high gear.

I’m working on a very repetitive cable and drop stitch stole. I envision it being worn walking along a beach on a cool Summer night. Draped over bare shoulders to ward of that chill coming in off the water.

Ok. Two things — I might be slightly romantic. Also, I’m in desperate need of a vacation. I’m thinking somewhere I can put this vision into action.

I frogged this design a couple times over the weekend until I got the arrangement of stitches I was happy with. There is a leaf motif as the center focal point and I was having some trouble making up my mind how best to show it off. I ended up asking Rick’s opinion. (So if you guys hate it we can blame him. Hehe. Also, we’re moving in together in July! It’s good he gets used to being a sounding board for my designs now. Give him a taste of what he’s in for 24/7 😂)

I cannot wait for this design, along with the ZZ Top shell, Rewind raglan, and Flikka shawl to all be wrapped up. Beach photo shoot here I come! 💛

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ZZ TwistY!

I’m working on take II of a crocheted shell I designed in Lion Brand’s ZZ Twist yarn. This yarn was created with a “Z” twist meant for crocheters. (Z is opposite of the standard S twist. It’s spinning term stuff relating to spinning a single and then counter-spinning to balance the energy in the yarn.)

I like the definition and drape of the fabric that this yarn produces. This is another yarn that I wasn’t overly impressed with when I first touched it. I was like meh, I like natural fibers. Truly. However, the appeal of a washable garment is pretty strong because I hate hand washing and feeling like I have to treat garments like they’re about to break. I have some weird contradicting feelings and habits I guess. 🙂

Anyway, I gave the yarn a shot because it was there. So really, why not? The top came out nice (Annalee already added it to her wardrobe) and I’ve begun to consider other patterns I can write for it (all garments). Something that I found does happen, though, is the yarn gets a little twisted up. I think it might be a little overspun. Just my opinion. As I worked I’d notice the strand of yarn feeding into the project would twist around and start to double back on itself. Like when you’re making a twisted cord. (Twist, twist, twist, fold and let double back on itself. That kind of thing.) It’s a very minor annoyance and so far my only semi-negative comment.

As soon as I finish and photograph take II of this top I’ll get to work sizing up the pattern. After that it’ll be some proof reading and the pattern will be listed!

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Revved Up Over Rewind

Rewind

I feel like I’ve been into all sorts of new yarns recently. New companies, embracing new colors, and breaking out of my little niche of hand-dyed fingering weight merino. Currently I’m working with tape yarn. Yup. TAPE yarn. It’s this flat, paper-like acrylic stuff. A year ago if you had said I’d pick it up by choice and *like* it I might have laughed at you. However, that’s exactly what I did.

Lion Brand Yarn released a new yarn called Rewind. It’s a bulky weight tape yarn made from 70% polyester and 30% viscose. There are 242 yards per 100 grams. Since this is a bulky weight (I’m using US size 11 knitting needles) you can get a sense of how airy the yarn is from the yardage per grams.

The color I’m working with is Greige. Doesn’t that translate to gray? It’s really more of a non-descript tannish kind of color. Almost like that weird thin paper in cheap notepads for kitds. Sounds kind of awful, but it’s not. Rewind

So why exactly do I like this yarn? It’s fun. It’s light. It works up fast. It’s a good alternative to cotton for warmer weather projects (I hate cotton). It’s great value. On LionBrand.com it goes for $7.99 for a 100 gram / 242 yard ball. And remember it’s a bulky weight. You can go pretty far on that. And let’s face it, yarns that feel good, look good, and are reasonably priced are pretty appealing.

I decided to make my first project in Rewind a top down raglan. Simple. I wanted to see the texture of the yarn. So far it’s working up nicely. I got through the entire sleeve increase section with just a single ball of yarn. (Yes! Value.) Even though it’s bulky, I don’t think the sweater will be crazy heavy/warm. On the US 11 needles the fabric is relatively open (13 sts per 4 inches).

rewind

Once I finish this project I’m going to move on to a stole using the Olive You, a muted olive green. (The website describes is as a “dark charcoal gray”. This is incorrect. It is very much a green color. Not a bright green, but not charcoal gray. I think fringe on the end of a shawl in this yarn will look amazing. And the lightness of the yarn… So breezy.

Lion Brand Rewind

So far I haven’t found anything I don’t like about the yarn. I’m not a huge fan of the fact it’s manmade materials, but that’s my slight yarn snob coming out. We’ll see how it washes and wears and if it stands up and keeps its shape. Only time will tell.


*Note: This post was not commissioned. The yarn was purchased by me (not supplied by company) and the content is purely my own opinion.