Piedmont Raglan: Test Knit Call!

I know a few of you out there have been waiting on this design. It’s ready for testing! Interested? Email me at: fiddleknitsdesigns@gmail.com

I’d consider this a Fall or Spring sweater. For transitional weather. Based on the sleeve length and the yarn I used. Of course, it’s perfectly acceptable as a winter sweater as well depending on your style and location.

For the test you you may use any yarn you like to achieve the gauge in the pattern. I’d like to have this fully tested by the end of the year. I know we’re in full blown holiday season, so I’m flexible on the dates. What I do ask of test knitters is semi regular check ins with progress updates. Something brief on a weekly basis is fine. Just so I know the project is still in the loop and don’t need to post another call for more testers.

This isn’t a super secret knit, so do feel free to post and share your WIPs as you wish. If adding a project to Ravelry please tag with “fiddleknits” and “piedmont”. Once tested this will be a free pattern available via my blog and I will post it on Ravelry.

Deadline: December 16 (Can be flexible if testers maintains communication on progress.)
I’m looking for some folks willing to test knit or proofread a raglan sweater pattern. I know this is a pretty hectic time of year for most people, so I’m giving what I hope is a good deadline and I’m willing to be flexible if you want to do it, but need an extra week or two.

NOTE: Please feel free to use your favorite yarn that lets you achieve gauge.

Yarn
2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4) cakes Lion Brand Yarn, Comfy Cotton Blend
[392 yards, 200 grams, CYC #3, 50% Cotton / 50% Polyester]
Color: Whipped Cream

Needles
US size 7 / 4.5mm 32” circular needle and set of DPNs for body and sleeves
US size 8 / 5mm 32” circular needlefor hem

Gauge
16 sts & 26 rnds = 4” in stockinette stitch

Sizes
Hip: 36 (42, 48, 54, 54)”
Bust: 36 (40, 46, 50, 52)”
Length to underarm: 22 (23, 23.5, 24, 24)”
Sleeve Length: 12”
Upper arm: 14 (14, 15, 15, 15)”

Skill Level: Intermediate

—————-

The sleeves are 3/4 length. If you wish to adjust yours to be short or long sleeve please do so, but also please check pattern as is and make sure it reads correctly. Then modify your as desired so you’ll enjoy your finished sweater!

Communications may take place through this thread so you can discuss with fellow testers. You may also email me. Please try and check in at least weekly with progress updates. A finished photo would be great at the end!

This is not a secret knit, so feel free to create a project page. Once the pattern is listed on Ravelry I would like your project linked to the pattern so Ravelers can see finished items of the design.

Project tags: FiddleKnits, Piedmont

I do work a full time job, but I will check in to this thread at least once a day and will answer questions and comments as quickly as possible.

The Boyfriend Sweater: Do You Believe the Curse?

If you’ve been a yarn crafter for at least a day or so you’ve probably stumbled across the myth of the boyfriend sweater curse. I don’t buy it. For me it was always a blanket. I started making a boyfriend an afghan (following a Lion Brand pattern and using homespun yarn…) and I broke up with him before it was done. A couple years later I was dating someone else and found the half finished afghan and decided to finish it and regift it to the new guy. We broke up about a month later. 😂 So is it an afghan curse or was it just that particular one?

Other than that I only made small knit gifts for my boyfriends. Lots of hats. A pair of socks here and there. Now fast forward to Rick. Last Christmas (our first together) I made him a crocheted blanket (again with Lion Brand yarn, but this time Wool-Ease Thick & Quick). Approaching another Christmas and we’re still together. I haven’t made him anything else. But he’s been eyeing all the sweaters I’m making myself and asking for one. So I decided to go for it. I don’t believe it that damn curse anyway. So he’s getting a Fiddle Knits original design using Knit Picks City Tweed HW in Toad. I searched for it a couple nights ago and last night cast on for the back.

I’m going with a broken ribbing for the bottom. The fronts will be ribbed into stockinette. We might go for some afterthought patch pockets. Sleeves will also have rubbed cuffs and stockinette main. I’m contemplating the ribbing for the entire back, though…. probably a modified from shoulder because he wants a casual look. He says messy but not sloppy. I think a Raglan shoulder might be too fitted for what he’s thinking. He’s says he’ll wear what I make no matter what! 😁

raglan sweater knit in Lion Brand wool-ease yarn

Test Knit Call: The Remake Raglan

Love test knitting? Here’s one for you then.

I just finished writing up the Remake Raglan sweater and need some eyes on it. Once checked it will become a free pattern available via my blog and Ravelry.

Here’s what you need to know…

  • Worked from the bottom up.
  • The yarn is Lion Brand Wool-Ease Worsted. But test knitters can use their favorite yarn.
    • If you do use Lion Brand Yarn you’ll need:Black: 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) skeins

      Oxford Grey: 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) skeins

      Grey Heather: 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) skeins

  • Gauge: 20 sts & 28 rnds = 4” in stockinette stitch
  • It’s striped, but feel free to make it a solid color.
  • Finished bust sizes are: 36 (39, 44, 47, 52)”
  • Sleeves are ¾ length. Make them longer if you wish.
  • Back hem is 2″ longer than front.
  • Front hem hits at the hips.
  • Neckline is wide and semi off the shoulder, but a few extra decrease rounds in the shaping section easily closes that up for a more modest neckline.
  • Deadline: Thanksgiving

Interested? Email me! Fiddleknitsdesigns@gmail.com

Can’t make the commitment to the deadline, but still willing to look the pattern over? That’s fine too! Extra eyes are always welcome. Once you’ve stared at a pattern so long all the words and numbers get jumbled up. Fresh eyes are a huge help!

The skill level on this is around advanced beginner or low level intermediate. It has some basic shaping, color changes, and working in the round.

I feel like I usually hear about top down raglans. They’re great, but I’ve always had an issue with them. It’s easy to begin and increase and try on as you go. Takes some guesswork out. However, at the end I absolutely cannot stand working the sleeves! Turning the entire sweater around and around as you work the small sleeve circumference feels cumbersome to me. So I’ve embraced the bottom up raglan. Still working in the round, still a well fitting classic shape. But this way once you attach those sleeves you’re on the home stretch and the knitting goes by crazy fast. Unless I’m working a cap sleeve design, I don’t plan on going back to the top down structure.

Next up: the next sweater up for testing will be Piedmont. I know a few of you have been patiently (or impatiently lol) waiting to see that one. Expect a test knit call within the next few days.

On A Roll With Raglans

I don’t know if it’s the cool weather kicking in or what, but I’ve been on a serious sweater kick recently. And so far they’re all raglans. Bottom up (because I hate flipping the whole sweater around to work the sleeves of a top down raglan). I’m on my third sweater in about a month. All are my own design. The goal is that they will all be free patterns.

comfy cotton blend yarn from Lion BrandThe first sweater is Piedmont. It’s worked in Comfy Cotton Blend from Lion Brand Yarn. The body features reverse stockinette and the sleeves are traditional stockinette. The ribbed decrease line of the raglan sleeves joins the two textures.

I made the sleeves ¾ length because I’m constantly pushing my long sleeves up out of the way anyway. I like having my wrists exposed. Unless I’m snuggling in for some knitting and kitty cuddles. In which case I’m wearing an oversized sweatshirt and not a hand knit sweater anyway.

raglan sweater in the petite wool from we are knitters

The second sweater is Down Port. This short sleeve cropped sweater works up in no time using We Are Knitters Petite Wool and size 10.5 needles. Even though I designed it cropped you can easily add length prior to the waist shaping. My version used 3 skeins of Black and 1 black/white twist and 1 yellow.

The third sweater is currently on my needles. This one is a striped raglan in Lion Brand’s Wool-Ease Worsted. I used this yarn waaaaaaayyy back in the day when I was first discovering knitting. At this point it’s about 14 years ago. Frightening thought.

I haven’t quite figured out how I’m working the stripe sequence on this one. Currently I’m thinking of alternating between the main color and coordinating color 1 until after the waist shaping. Then switching to Coordinating color 1 and 2. Then just a little bit at the end with colors 2 and 3. Sleeves will be 3/4 length like I did for the Piedmont sweater.

Settling In

I moved! In the last week Rick and I have been settling in to our new apartment. It’s good to be back out on Eastern LI. We’re mostly unpacked. Mostly. All my yarn and needles are still in bins in the craft closest. But I have a set of circulars and a few projects unpacked that I can work on! Of course, the yarn I have out and available I didn’t want to work on. So I got some new yarn. Woe is me.

Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Yarn

Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend in “Whipped Cream”. I cast it on as soon as I brought it home. It’s becoming a bottom-up raglan. Yet another design in progress that I’ll need to photograph and write up so I can release it.

I’m hoping that now, being back out east, I can get back into the swing of semi-regular photoshoots with my sister. With me being in more photos as well. Because I want to make some sweaters in my size!

This current design in progress (DIP?) began with inspiration from a Japanese knitting stitch dictionary my dad gave me for my birthday. I’m using the stitch on the hem and probably will incorporate it into the sleeve somehow. However, the majority of the sweater is worked in plain reverse stockinette stitch in the round. Yes, I know. There are lots of you knitters out there that hate lurking over and over and over again. I’m not one of those knitters. Purling has never bothered me. In fact, sometimes I even like it better than knitting. There. I said it.

If you’re not a purl fan like me then you can flip your work (after the hem detail) to knit the sweater inside out until you get to the sleeves. This lets you knit ever round instead of lurking endless inches. Work as your mood strikes you. Or heck, change the pattern entirely and make the right side in regular stockinette. I’m a big proponent of changing up patterns to make them work for you. So what if it was written on way? You do you!

Lion Brand yarn Comfy Cotton blend

free crochet shawl pattern

Bay Shore – A Free Crochet Shawl Pattern

If you’re looking for a free, fast, fun crochet project then you’re in the right spot! I whipped up this shawl using Lion Brand Yarn Jeans (acrylic) and Flikka (cotton/acrylic). Jeans yarn is so soft! And Flikka has this awesome retro vibe that I’ve taken to. Check out all the colors. There’s some great ones! And they pair wonderfully with Jeans. Technically the yarns are classified as different weights (Jeans is CYC #4 and Flikka is CYC #3.)

Worked at a loose gauge and only having 42 rows, this shawl works up fast! And its substantial size gives a dramatic effect when worn.

I’ve added tassels to the 3 points of the shawl using Jeans for the main color and Flikka to wrap around the tops of the tassels. This is optional, but it does serve to give extra weight helping to keep the shawl wrapped and hanging down instead of billowing out.

free crochet shawl pattern

Suggested Yarn
2 skeins Lion Brand, Jeans
246 yards, 100 grams, CYC #4
100% Acrylic
Color: “Vintage”

1 skein Lion Brand, Flikka
196 yards, 100 gransm CYC #3
50% Cotton / 50% Polyester
Color: Keepsake

Hook
US P-15, 10mm

Gauge
10 hdc = 4”

Notions
Yarn needle for weaving ends
Cardboard for wrapping tassels (optional)

Finished Size
One Size, approximately 70” wingspan x 32” depth


free crochet shawl pattern

The Pattern

With Jeans yarn, chain 4, join to form ring.

Ch 2, work 17 hdc into ring, turn – 17 sts

Row 1: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 7 hdc, 3 hdc in next st,
7 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 21 sts

Row 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc in next st] 4 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 hdc in next st,
[ch 1, skip next st, hdc in next st] 4 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st, turn – 25 sts

Row 3: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-1 space] 5 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next ch-1 space] 5 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2hdc in last st, turn – 27 sts

Row 4: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next ch-space, hdc in next st] 5 times, ch 1, 3 hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next ch space, hdc in next st]
6 times, 2 hdc in last st

Row 5: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-1 space] 6 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next ch-1 space] 6 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2hdc in last st, turn

Row 6: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next ch-space, hdc in next st] 6 times, ch 1, 3 hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next ch space, hdc in next st]
7 times, 2 hdc in last st

Row 7: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-1 space] 7 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next ch-1 space] 7 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st, turn

Row 8: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next 15 sts (counting ch-space as 1 st), 3 hdc in next st, hdc in next 15 sts, 2 hdc in last st – 37 sts

Row 9: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 17 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 17 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 41 sts

Row 10: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 19 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 19 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 45 sts

Row 11: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 21 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 21 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 49 sts

Row 12: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 23 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 23 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 53 sts

With Flikka (Color 2)

Row 13: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 25 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 25 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 57 sts

Row 14: Ch 1, slip stitch in every stitch to end (no stitches increased)

With Jeans (Color 1)

Row 15: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 27 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 27 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 61 sts

Row 16: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 29 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 29 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 65 sts

With Flikka (Color 2)

Row 17: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 15 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st, [dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st] 15 times, 2 dc in last st

Row 18: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same space, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 16 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 16 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 19: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 17 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 17 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 20: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 18 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 18 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 21: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 19 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 19 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 22: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 20 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 20 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

With Jeans (Color 1)

Row 23: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 44 hdc (counting ch-1 space as 1 st), 3 hdc in next st, 44 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 95 sts

Row 24: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 46 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 46 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 99 sts

Row 25: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 48 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 48 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 103 sts

Row 26: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 50 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 50 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 107 sts

Row 27: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 52 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 52 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 111 sts

Row 28: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 54 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 54 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 115 sts

Row 29: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st,
hdc in next st] 28 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc in next st] 28 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st

Row 30: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-space] 29 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-space] 29 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st

Row 31: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc in top of next cluster] 29 times, ch 1, 3 hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc in top of next cluster] 29 times, ch 1, skip next st, 1 hdc, 2 hdc in last st

Row 32: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-space] 30 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-space] 30 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st

Row 33: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st,
hdc in top of next cluster] 30 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 hdc in next cluster, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc in top of next cluster] 30 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st

Row 34: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-space] 31 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in
ch-space] 31 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2hdc in last st

Row 35: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 63 hdc (counting ch-1 space as 1 st), 3 hdc in next st, 63 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 133 sts

Row 36: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 65 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 65 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 137 sts

With Flikka (Color 2)

Row 37: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st,
[ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 32 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 32 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 dc in last st

Row 38: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same space, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 34 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 34 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 39: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same space, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 35 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 35 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 40: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same space, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 36 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 36 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

With Jeans (Color 1)

Row 41: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 75 hdc (counting ch-1 space as 1 st), 3 hdc in next st, 75 hdc, 2 hdc in last st

Row 42 (Last Row): Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 77 hdc,
3 hdc in next st, 77 hdc, 2 hdc in last st

Cut yarn and finish by weaving in ends.
Shawl shown features tassels on each pointof the shawl. They are created with 40 wraps around a 4” piece of cardboard.

free crochet shawl pattern


Abbreviations
Ch Chain
Dc Double crochet
Hdc Half double crochet
St(s) Stitch(es)
Tog Together

Bay Shore Shawl

Design Copyright Erica Jackofsky • Fiddle Knits Designs
All Rights Reserved • April 2018
For more information contact: FiddleKnitsDesigns@gmail.com
Photos: Erica Jackofsky • Modeled by Annalee Jackofsky

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Knit it, Drop it

Rewind. It’s one of the new [gasp] acrylic yarns I cant stop playing with. Lightweight, yet speedy quick and bulky. Interesting and fun, but not expensive. This yarn has been keeping my imagination rolling in high gear.

I’m working on a very repetitive cable and drop stitch stole. I envision it being worn walking along a beach on a cool Summer night. Draped over bare shoulders to ward of that chill coming in off the water.

Ok. Two things — I might be slightly romantic. Also, I’m in desperate need of a vacation. I’m thinking somewhere I can put this vision into action.

I frogged this design a couple times over the weekend until I got the arrangement of stitches I was happy with. There is a leaf motif as the center focal point and I was having some trouble making up my mind how best to show it off. I ended up asking Rick’s opinion. (So if you guys hate it we can blame him. Hehe. Also, we’re moving in together in July! It’s good he gets used to being a sounding board for my designs now. Give him a taste of what he’s in for 24/7 😂)

I cannot wait for this design, along with the ZZ Top shell, Rewind raglan, and Flikka shawl to all be wrapped up. Beach photo shoot here I come! 💛

ZZ TwistY!

I’m working on take II of a crocheted shell I designed in Lion Brand’s ZZ Twist yarn. This yarn was created with a “Z” twist meant for crocheters. (Z is opposite of the standard S twist. It’s spinning term stuff relating to spinning a single and then counter-spinning to balance the energy in the yarn.)

I like the definition and drape of the fabric that this yarn produces. This is another yarn that I wasn’t overly impressed with when I first touched it. I was like meh, I like natural fibers. Truly. However, the appeal of a washable garment is pretty strong because I hate hand washing and feeling like I have to treat garments like they’re about to break. I have some weird contradicting feelings and habits I guess. 🙂

Anyway, I gave the yarn a shot because it was there. So really, why not? The top came out nice (Annalee already added it to her wardrobe) and I’ve begun to consider other patterns I can write for it (all garments). Something that I found does happen, though, is the yarn gets a little twisted up. I think it might be a little overspun. Just my opinion. As I worked I’d notice the strand of yarn feeding into the project would twist around and start to double back on itself. Like when you’re making a twisted cord. (Twist, twist, twist, fold and let double back on itself. That kind of thing.) It’s a very minor annoyance and so far my only semi-negative comment.

As soon as I finish and photograph take II of this top I’ll get to work sizing up the pattern. After that it’ll be some proof reading and the pattern will be listed!

Fast Crochet

I posted a teaser photo of Flikka yarn on my Instagram feed not too long ago sharing the fact that I hated this yarn when I originally saw it. Honestly it reminded me of some crappy 70s throwback. All the colors are multi rag-type looking options. Would I want an entire garment in it? Not so much. But as an accent color to another yarn I think it does pretty well.

flikka yarn

So I designed this crochet shawl (lots of crochet recently!) using Lion Brand yarns Jeans and Flikka. Jeans is a very soft acrylic yarn. (If you’re looking for an non-traditional baby yarn you might want to consider this as an option. It comes in traditional denim inspired colors.) Flikka is a blend of 50% cotton and 50% acrylic. It’s not to die for soft, but it’s softer than it is rough.

I made this shawl twice. The original (shown in photos) uses Jeans in Vintage and Flikka in Keepsake. Since it worked up stupid fast I decided to make another. I used Vintage again, but this time paired it with Jump rope. Photos of that combination will hopefully be shot this coming weekend. Weather permitting. No pattern release day yet. It will be available here on the blog and via Ravelry as soon as it is properly tested, photographed, and laid out as a PDF.

flikka yarn

Interested in test crocheting this design?! Send me an email:

fiddleknitsdesigns@gmail.com

The Details: Pattern test opened April 23, 2018. Deadline for finishing the pattern is May 31, 2018. Testers may use the yarn of their choice. This is not a secret test, so crocheters are free to post about their WIP.

DSC05582

 

Revisiting Rewind

A few days ago I wrote about a new yarn I was using called Rewind. It’s made by Lion Brand yarn and it’s a bulky weight acrylic tape. At that point I’d only been working with it for a day or two, so I didn’t have a complete read on how it behaved. Now, almost done with my raglan, I have a little more to say.

I still really enjoy this yarn. It is not a beginner friendly choice. Because it is a very airy smooth tape, instead of a more substantial rounded strand, there are moments when it slips or drifts right out of my hand as I work. This happens more frequently the faster I start to knit. Annoying? On occasion. Overall would it prevent me from using the yarn again? Nope. In fact, I’ve already begun designing a second pattern using the stuff. (Design two will be a warm weather stole in a cable and drop stitch pattern. I’m in love with the idea!)

I’m very close to done with my simple top-down raglan sweater. The next thing to see is how this yarn stands up to wearing and washing. Stay tuned!

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