Category: Patterns

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Oyster Bay: A Knit Shawl Pattern

knit shawl pattern by Fiddle Knits in We Are Knitters MeriPaca
  • knit shawl pattern by Fiddle Knits in We Are Knitters MeriPaca
  • knit shawl pattern by Fiddle Knits in We Are Knitters MeriPaca

This design has been a long time coming. I started it last Winter and by the time it made it through full pattern writing and test knitting I’d decided the weather was getting a bit too warm for a chunky shawl. So it sat over the Summer and then I moved… and it was out of sight. With the imminent threat of snow I dug this, last year’s favorite shawl, out of hiding.

And so here it is. You can download the pattern for $5.00 (PDF) via Ravelry.com. (You do not need to have a Ravelry or PayPal account to get the pattern.)

Oyster Bay shawl in We Are Knitters MeriPaca yarn

Oyster Bay uses 4 skeins of We Are Knitters MeriPaca yarn. It’s a beautiful bulky weight blend of 20% baby alpaca and 80% merino wool. I’m a huge fan of this combination! There’s enough baby alpaca to notice the softness, but not enough that you get that halo of fuzz that can irritate more sensitive skin types. And, of course, merino wool is hands down my favorite fiber out there. So I can’t really go wrong with this yarn.

It does appear that the original color I used has since gone out of stock, but MeriPaca is still offered in a few very pretty colors. [VIEW ALL]

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Piedmont Raglan: Test Knit Call!

I know a few of you out there have been waiting on this design. It’s ready for testing! Interested? Email me at: fiddleknitsdesigns@gmail.com

I’d consider this a Fall or Spring sweater. For transitional weather. Based on the sleeve length and the yarn I used. Of course, it’s perfectly acceptable as a winter sweater as well depending on your style and location.

For the test you you may use any yarn you like to achieve the gauge in the pattern. I’d like to have this fully tested by the end of the year. I know we’re in full blown holiday season, so I’m flexible on the dates. What I do ask of test knitters is semi regular check ins with progress updates. Something brief on a weekly basis is fine. Just so I know the project is still in the loop and don’t need to post another call for more testers.

This isn’t a super secret knit, so do feel free to post and share your WIPs as you wish. If adding a project to Ravelry please tag with “fiddleknits” and “piedmont”. Once tested this will be a free pattern available via my blog and I will post it on Ravelry.

Deadline: December 16 (Can be flexible if testers maintains communication on progress.)
I’m looking for some folks willing to test knit or proofread a raglan sweater pattern. I know this is a pretty hectic time of year for most people, so I’m giving what I hope is a good deadline and I’m willing to be flexible if you want to do it, but need an extra week or two.

NOTE: Please feel free to use your favorite yarn that lets you achieve gauge.

Yarn
2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4) cakes Lion Brand Yarn, Comfy Cotton Blend
[392 yards, 200 grams, CYC #3, 50% Cotton / 50% Polyester]
Color: Whipped Cream

Needles
US size 7 / 4.5mm 32” circular needle and set of DPNs for body and sleeves
US size 8 / 5mm 32” circular needlefor hem

Gauge
16 sts & 26 rnds = 4” in stockinette stitch

Sizes
Hip: 36 (42, 48, 54, 54)”
Bust: 36 (40, 46, 50, 52)”
Length to underarm: 22 (23, 23.5, 24, 24)”
Sleeve Length: 12”
Upper arm: 14 (14, 15, 15, 15)”

Skill Level: Intermediate

—————-

The sleeves are 3/4 length. If you wish to adjust yours to be short or long sleeve please do so, but also please check pattern as is and make sure it reads correctly. Then modify your as desired so you’ll enjoy your finished sweater!

Communications may take place through this thread so you can discuss with fellow testers. You may also email me. Please try and check in at least weekly with progress updates. A finished photo would be great at the end!

This is not a secret knit, so feel free to create a project page. Once the pattern is listed on Ravelry I would like your project linked to the pattern so Ravelers can see finished items of the design.

Project tags: FiddleKnits, Piedmont

I do work a full time job, but I will check in to this thread at least once a day and will answer questions and comments as quickly as possible.

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Test Knit Call: The Remake Raglan

raglan sweater knit in Lion Brand wool-ease yarn

Love test knitting? Here’s one for you then.

I just finished writing up the Remake Raglan sweater and need some eyes on it. Once checked it will become a free pattern available via my blog and Ravelry.

Here’s what you need to know…

  • Worked from the bottom up.
  • The yarn is Lion Brand Wool-Ease Worsted. But test knitters can use their favorite yarn.
    • If you do use Lion Brand Yarn you’ll need:Black: 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) skeins

      Oxford Grey: 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) skeins

      Grey Heather: 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) skeins

  • Gauge: 20 sts & 28 rnds = 4” in stockinette stitch
  • It’s striped, but feel free to make it a solid color.
  • Finished bust sizes are: 36 (39, 44, 47, 52)”
  • Sleeves are ¾ length. Make them longer if you wish.
  • Back hem is 2″ longer than front.
  • Front hem hits at the hips.
  • Neckline is wide and semi off the shoulder, but a few extra decrease rounds in the shaping section easily closes that up for a more modest neckline.
  • Deadline: Thanksgiving

Interested? Email me! Fiddleknitsdesigns@gmail.com

Can’t make the commitment to the deadline, but still willing to look the pattern over? That’s fine too! Extra eyes are always welcome. Once you’ve stared at a pattern so long all the words and numbers get jumbled up. Fresh eyes are a huge help!

The skill level on this is around advanced beginner or low level intermediate. It has some basic shaping, color changes, and working in the round.

I feel like I usually hear about top down raglans. They’re great, but I’ve always had an issue with them. It’s easy to begin and increase and try on as you go. Takes some guesswork out. However, at the end I absolutely cannot stand working the sleeves! Turning the entire sweater around and around as you work the small sleeve circumference feels cumbersome to me. So I’ve embraced the bottom up raglan. Still working in the round, still a well fitting classic shape. But this way once you attach those sleeves you’re on the home stretch and the knitting goes by crazy fast. Unless I’m working a cap sleeve design, I don’t plan on going back to the top down structure.

Next up: the next sweater up for testing will be Piedmont. I know a few of you have been patiently (or impatiently lol) waiting to see that one. Expect a test knit call within the next few days.

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On A Roll With Raglans

I don’t know if it’s the cool weather kicking in or what, but I’ve been on a serious sweater kick recently. And so far they’re all raglans. Bottom up (because I hate flipping the whole sweater around to work the sleeves of a top down raglan). I’m on my third sweater in about a month. All are my own design. The goal is that they will all be free patterns.

comfy cotton blend yarn from Lion BrandThe first sweater is Piedmont. It’s worked in Comfy Cotton Blend from Lion Brand Yarn. The body features reverse stockinette and the sleeves are traditional stockinette. The ribbed decrease line of the raglan sleeves joins the two textures.

I made the sleeves ¾ length because I’m constantly pushing my long sleeves up out of the way anyway. I like having my wrists exposed. Unless I’m snuggling in for some knitting and kitty cuddles. In which case I’m wearing an oversized sweatshirt and not a hand knit sweater anyway.

raglan sweater in the petite wool from we are knitters

The second sweater is Down Port. This short sleeve cropped sweater works up in no time using We Are Knitters Petite Wool and size 10.5 needles. Even though I designed it cropped you can easily add length prior to the waist shaping. My version used 3 skeins of Black and 1 black/white twist and 1 yellow.

The third sweater is currently on my needles. This one is a striped raglan in Lion Brand’s Wool-Ease Worsted. I used this yarn waaaaaaayyy back in the day when I was first discovering knitting. At this point it’s about 14 years ago. Frightening thought.

I haven’t quite figured out how I’m working the stripe sequence on this one. Currently I’m thinking of alternating between the main color and coordinating color 1 until after the waist shaping. Then switching to Coordinating color 1 and 2. Then just a little bit at the end with colors 2 and 3. Sleeves will be 3/4 length like I did for the Piedmont sweater.

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Settling In

I moved! In the last week Rick and I have been settling in to our new apartment. It’s good to be back out on Eastern LI. We’re mostly unpacked. Mostly. All my yarn and needles are still in bins in the craft closest. But I have a set of circulars and a few projects unpacked that I can work on! Of course, the yarn I have out and available I didn’t want to work on. So I got some new yarn. Woe is me.

Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Yarn

Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend in “Whipped Cream”. I cast it on as soon as I brought it home. It’s becoming a bottom-up raglan. Yet another design in progress that I’ll need to photograph and write up so I can release it.

I’m hoping that now, being back out east, I can get back into the swing of semi-regular photoshoots with my sister. With me being in more photos as well. Because I want to make some sweaters in my size!

This current design in progress (DIP?) began with inspiration from a Japanese knitting stitch dictionary my dad gave me for my birthday. I’m using the stitch on the hem and probably will incorporate it into the sleeve somehow. However, the majority of the sweater is worked in plain reverse stockinette stitch in the round. Yes, I know. There are lots of you knitters out there that hate lurking over and over and over again. I’m not one of those knitters. Purling has never bothered me. In fact, sometimes I even like it better than knitting. There. I said it.

If you’re not a purl fan like me then you can flip your work (after the hem detail) to knit the sweater inside out until you get to the sleeves. This lets you knit ever round instead of lurking endless inches. Work as your mood strikes you. Or heck, change the pattern entirely and make the right side in regular stockinette. I’m a big proponent of changing up patterns to make them work for you. So what if it was written on way? You do you!

Lion Brand yarn Comfy Cotton blend

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Home Dec

I’ve never been much for home decor knit/crochet projects. But then I was never truly in control of all aspects of the decorating. Now I am! And I’m interested. So I’ve got the basket thing going. Making belly baskets and probably just a large bucket kind of bag using Lion Brand Fast-Track yarn. But I’m wondering what else can I do? Blankets, obviously. Table runners? Seat covers? Does anyone have some ideas to pass along? Concepts or great patterns you’ve followed. I’m curious about anything whether it be functional or ornamental. If it’s for the home then it’s for me! 💛

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Bay Shore – A Free Crochet Shawl Pattern

free crochet shawl pattern

If you’re looking for a free, fast, fun crochet project then you’re in the right spot! I whipped up this shawl using Lion Brand Yarn Jeans (acrylic) and Flikka (cotton/acrylic). Jeans yarn is so soft! And Flikka has this awesome retro vibe that I’ve taken to. Check out all the colors. There’s some great ones! And they pair wonderfully with Jeans. Technically the yarns are classified as different weights (Jeans is CYC #4 and Flikka is CYC #3.)

Worked at a loose gauge and only having 42 rows, this shawl works up fast! And its substantial size gives a dramatic effect when worn.

I’ve added tassels to the 3 points of the shawl using Jeans for the main color and Flikka to wrap around the tops of the tassels. This is optional, but it does serve to give extra weight helping to keep the shawl wrapped and hanging down instead of billowing out.

free crochet shawl pattern

Suggested Yarn
2 skeins Lion Brand, Jeans
246 yards, 100 grams, CYC #4
100% Acrylic
Color: “Vintage”

1 skein Lion Brand, Flikka
196 yards, 100 gransm CYC #3
50% Cotton / 50% Polyester
Color: Keepsake

Hook
US P-15, 10mm

Gauge
10 hdc = 4”

Notions
Yarn needle for weaving ends
Cardboard for wrapping tassels (optional)

Finished Size
One Size, approximately 70” wingspan x 32” depth

free crochet shawl pattern

The Pattern

With Jeans yarn, chain 4, join to form ring.

Ch 2, work 17 hdc into ring, turn – 17 sts

Row 1: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 7 hdc, 3 hdc in next st,
7 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 21 sts

Row 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc in next st] 4 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 hdc in next st,
[ch 1, skip next st, hdc in next st] 4 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st, turn – 25 sts

Row 3: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-1 space] 5 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next ch-1 space] 5 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2hdc in last st, turn – 27 sts

Row 4: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next ch-space, hdc in next st] 5 times, ch 1, 3 hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next ch space, hdc in next st]
6 times, 2 hdc in last st

Row 5: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-1 space] 6 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next ch-1 space] 6 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2hdc in last st, turn

Row 6: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next ch-space, hdc in next st] 6 times, ch 1, 3 hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next ch space, hdc in next st]
7 times, 2 hdc in last st

Row 7: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-1 space] 7 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next ch-1 space] 7 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st, turn

Row 8: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next 15 sts (counting ch-space as 1 st), 3 hdc in next st, hdc in next 15 sts, 2 hdc in last st – 37 sts

Row 9: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 17 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 17 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 41 sts

Row 10: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 19 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 19 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 45 sts

Row 11: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 21 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 21 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 49 sts

Row 12: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 23 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 23 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 53 sts

With Flikka (Color 2)

Row 13: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 25 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 25 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 57 sts

Row 14: Ch 1, slip stitch in every stitch to end (no stitches increased)

With Jeans (Color 1)

Row 15: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 27 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 27 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 61 sts

Row 16: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 29 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 29 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 65 sts

With Flikka (Color 2)

Row 17: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 15 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st, [dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st] 15 times, 2 dc in last st

Row 18: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same space, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 16 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 16 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 19: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 17 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 17 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 20: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 18 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 18 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 21: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 19 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 19 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 22: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 20 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 20 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

With Jeans (Color 1)

Row 23: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 44 hdc (counting ch-1 space as 1 st), 3 hdc in next st, 44 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 95 sts

Row 24: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 46 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 46 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 99 sts

Row 25: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 48 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 48 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 103 sts

Row 26: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 50 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 50 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 107 sts

Row 27: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 52 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 52 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 111 sts

Row 28: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 54 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 54 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 115 sts

Row 29: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st,
hdc in next st] 28 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc in next st] 28 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st

Row 30: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-space] 29 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-space] 29 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st

Row 31: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc in top of next cluster] 29 times, ch 1, 3 hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc in top of next cluster] 29 times, ch 1, skip next st, 1 hdc, 2 hdc in last st

Row 32: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-space] 30 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-space] 30 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st

Row 33: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st,
hdc in top of next cluster] 30 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 hdc in next cluster, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc in top of next cluster] 30 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 hdc in last st

Row 34: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in ch-space] 31 times, ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, hdc4tog in
ch-space] 31 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2hdc in last st

Row 35: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 63 hdc (counting ch-1 space as 1 st), 3 hdc in next st, 63 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 133 sts

Row 36: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 65 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 65 hdc, 2 hdc in last st – 137 sts

With Flikka (Color 2)

Row 37: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st,
[ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 32 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 32 times, ch 1, skip next st, 2 dc in last st

Row 38: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same space, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 34 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 34 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 39: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same space, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 35 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 35 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

Row 40: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same space, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space] 36 times, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in ch-1 space, 36 times, ch 1, 2 dc in last st

With Jeans (Color 1)

Row 41: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 75 hdc (counting ch-1 space as 1 st), 3 hdc in next st, 75 hdc, 2 hdc in last st

Row 42 (Last Row): Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, 77 hdc,
3 hdc in next st, 77 hdc, 2 hdc in last st

Cut yarn and finish by weaving in ends.
Shawl shown features tassels on each pointof the shawl. They are created with 40 wraps around a 4” piece of cardboard.

free crochet shawl pattern

Abbreviations
Ch Chain
Dc Double crochet
Hdc Half double crochet
St(s) Stitch(es)
Tog Together

Bay Shore Shawl

Design Copyright Erica Jackofsky • Fiddle Knits Designs
All Rights Reserved • April 2018
For more information contact: FiddleKnitsDesigns@gmail.com
Photos: Erica Jackofsky • Modeled by Annalee Jackofsky

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Oyster Bay on the Way

The Oyster Bay shawl pattern is written, set into my new layout, and sent off to test knitters. Now we wait while my wonderful testers work through the design to make sure there’s nothing bizarre happening. The pattern should be all set by mid May. However, since it is a cool weather design (being knit in a chunky merino/alpaca blend), I may hold it for release until the end of August. Within the time I’m working in more shawls. All named for towns with LIRR stations. #commuterlife

My current shawl WIP is “Stony Brook,” worked in Wool and the Gang’s Sugar Baby Alpaca. It features a garter stitch body and knit-on border.

The yarn is buttery. I love it, but truth be told, I like the Oyster Bay yarn better. (We Are Knitters The MeriPaca) Something about merino just gets my vote for comfort every time.

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Almost

The eleventh hat for the In Rhythm collection has finally been photographed. This whole thing is taking far too long, but it will be finished. I refuse to leave it undone despite working 14 hours days. 1, because I said there would be 12, so there will be 12. And 2, because I love designing. Annnnnd I would like to come back to designing full time at some point.

The final step on this design is inserting the photos into the written pattern and making sure the layout flows. No weird line breaks or photos covering text. That sort of thing. Hopefully when I get home from work tonight I’ll be able to take a look at it. You know, assuming the LIRR runs and I don’t get stuck in Jamaica and arrive home after my bedtime. (Last week ended with a nightmare of a ride.)

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Go-To Hat in Scarfie – Free Knitting Pattern

Lion Brand Scarfie

Lion Brand Yarn, Scarfie
312 yards, 150 grams, bulky weight
78% Acrylic, 22% Wool
Color: Black/Hot Pink

Size
Adult: 18″ circumference
*Go down a needle size, or 2, to create a 16″ circumference for a tighter hat to keep your ears warmer. Looser is better for Spring and Fall to allow air circulation around the ears.

Needles
US size 9 (5.5 mm) 16″ circular and DPNs

Gauge
22 sts = 4” 1×1 twisted ribbing

Notions
Stitch marker to note beginning of rnd
Yarn needle for weaving ends

 

The Pattern
Cast on 96
Ribbing: *k1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Work ribbing for 1.5”

Rnd 1: Purl
Rnds 2-6: *p1, k1tbl; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 7: Purl
Rnds 8-12: *k1tbl, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Work rnds 1-12 a total of 3 times, or as desired to length before beginning crown decreases.
Purl 1 rnd

Crown decreases
Change to DPNs when necessary
Rnd 1: *[p1, k1tbl] 7 times, k2tog; rep from * another 5 times.
Rnd 2: *[p1, k1tbl] 7 times, k1; rep from * another 5 times.
Rnd 3: *[p1, k1tbl] 6 times, p1, k2tog; rep from * another 5 times.
Rnd 4: *[p1, k1tbl] 6 times, p1, k1; rep from * another 5 times.
Rnd 5: *[p1, k1tbl] 6 times, k2tog; rep from * another 5 times.
Rnd 6: *p12, k1; rep from * another 5 times
Rnd 7: *[k1tbl, p1] 5 Times, k1tbl, k2tog; rep from * another 5 times.
Rnd 8: *[k1tbl, p1] 5 Times, k2tog; rep from *another 5 times.
Rnd 9: *[k1tbl, p1] 4 times, k1tbl, k2tog; rep from *another 5 times.
Rnd 10: *[k1tbl, p1] 4 times, k2tog; rep from * another 5 times.
Rnd 11: *[k1tbl, p1] 3 times, k1tbl, k2tog; rep from *another 5 times.
Rnd 12: *p6, k2tog; rep from * another 5 times.
Rnd 13: *[p1, k1tbl] twice, p1, k2tog; rep from * another 5 times.
Rnd 14: *p1, k1tbl, p1, k2tog; rep from * another 5 times.
Rnd 15: *p1, k1tbl, k2tog; rep from * another 5 times.
Rnd 16: *p1, k2tog; rep from * another 5 times.
Rnd 17: k2tog 6 times – 6 sts remain.
Cut yarn and pull through remaining 6 sts.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

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