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Stitch Guide

1×1 Twisted Ribbing
1×1 ribbing is formed by working [k1, p1] across a row or round. To make it “twisted” you will work the knit stitches through the back loops on the right side of the fabric. If working in rows then you will also need to work the purl stitches through the back loop on wrong side rows.

2 x 2 Cross Left
Slip 2 stitches to cable needle #1 and hold in front. Slip 2 sts to cable needle #2 and hold back. Knit 2 from left needle. Purl 2 from cable needle #2. Knit 2 from cable needle #1.

2×2 Cross Left Purl
Slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold in front. k2, slip center st from cable needle back to left hand needle and purl it. k2 from cable needle.

2×2 Cross Right Purl
Slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold in back. k2, slip center st from cable needle to left hand needle and purl it. k2 from cable needle.

2 x 2 Ribbing
Circular (multiple of 4 stitches)
Round 1: *Knit 2 stitches, purl 2 stitches; repeat from * around, or as indicated.

Flat (multiple of 4 + 2)
Row 1: *Knit 2 stitches, purl 2 stitches; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, knit 2.
Row 2: *Purl 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, purl 2.

2 Stitch Reinforced Button Hole
Slip 1 stitch with yarn in front.
Move yarn to back.
Bind off 2 stitches.
Slip loop from last bound off stitch back to left needle.
Turn your work (WS is now facing you).
Cast on 3 stitches using cable cast on.
Turn your work (RS is now facing you).
Slip the last 2 stitches you just cast on from your right needle to your left needle.
Knit 2 together.

3 Needle Bind Off
Stitches should be evenly separated onto 2 needles.
Hold these 2 needles parallel to each other with the tips pointing in the same direction.
Hold the third, extra needle, in your right hand. *Insert this needle knitwise into the first stitch on the needle closest to you and at the same time knitwise into the first stitch on the back needle.
Yarn over the needle as for a regular knit stitch and pull it through the working yarn of both stitches to make one stitch which is now on the extra, right hand needle.*
Repeat from * to so there are two stitches on the right/extra needle.
Lift the first stitch worked over the last stitch made and let it drop (like a regular bind off) **
Work one more stitch, then repeat from * to ** until all stitches have been bound off.

4-Stitch 1-Row Buttonhole
Step 1: Work across row/rnd in pattern to buttonhole placement. Move yarn to front of work, slip the next stitch purlwise, move yarn to back of work.

Step 2: *Slip the next stitch to the right needle, pass the second stitch on the right needle over it and drop it from the needle. Repeat from * 3 times more.

Step 3: Slip the first stitch of the right needle to the left and turn your work. Move the yarn to the back and cast on 5 stitches using the cable cast on as follows: *Insert the right needle between the first two stitches on the left needle, pull through a loop, and place it on the left needle. Repeat from * 4 more times. Turn your work.

Step 4: With the yarn in back, slip the first stitch from the left needle to the right and pass the second stitch over it and off the needle to close the buttonhole. Knit 1 to finish row.

Alternate Beading
Within the pattern I have you applying a bead to the last knit stitch on 2 right side rows within the 6-row pattern repeat. (See k1w/b above.) I personally find working beads onto a knit stitch to be very fussy, however, it is the simplest way to write it within a pattern. Also, it is the “most obvious” if you simply grab the supplies and go for it. If you feel like you’re losing time and energy trying to get the beads to sit properly by knitting a bead on, try this method instead:
On the same rows that call for a bead in the pattern, work as instructed until the last 2 sts of the row. Move your yarn to the front of your work and slide a bead up toward your right needle. Keeping your yarn in front, slip the next stitch on the left needle purl-wise onto the right needle. Move your yarn to the back of your work and knit the last stitch of the row. The bead should now be sitting at the front of your work and will cover the slipped stitch.

C4B — Cable 4 Back
Slip the first 2 stitches on your left needle to a cable needle and hold to the back (WS) of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your left needle. Slip the 2 stitches on your cable needle back onto your left needle and knit 2 stitches.

C4F — Cable 4 Front
Slip the first 2 stitches on your left needle to a cable needle and hold to the front (RS) of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your left needle. Slip the 2 stitches on your cable needle back to left needle and knit 2 stitches.

C5B — Cable 5 Back
Slip the first 2 stitches on your left needle to a cable needle and hold to the back (WS) of your work. Knit the next 3 stitches on your left needle. Slip the 2 stitches on your cable needle back onto your left needle and knit 2 stitches.

C5F — Cable 5 Front
Slip the first 3 stitches on your left needle to a cable needle and hold to the front (RS) of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your left needle. Slip the 3 stitches on your cable needle back to left needle and knit 3 stitches.

C6B — Cable 6 Back
Slip the first 3 stitches on your left needle to a cable needle and hold to the back (WS) of your work. Knit the next 3 stitches on your left needle. Slip the 3 stitches on your cable needle back onto your left needle and knit 3 stitches.

C6F — Cable 6 Front
Slip the first 3 stitches on your left needle to a cable needle and hold to the front (RS) of your work. Knit the next 3 stitches on your left needle. Slip the 3 stitches on your cable needle back to left needle and knit 3 stitches.

Cable 2×1 Left
Slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold front. Knit 1. Knit 2 from cable needle.

Cable 2×1 Right
Slip 1 stitch to cable needle and hold back. Knit 2. Knit 1 from cable needle.

Cable 2 over 2 Left
Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front. Knit 2. Knit 2 from cable needle.

Cable 2 over 2 Right
Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back. Knit 2. Knit 2 from cable needle.

Cable Cast On
If you are working the cable cast on and already have live stitches on your needles then skip Steps 1 & 2.
Step 1: Begin by placing a slip knot on your left needle.
Step 2: Knit through the slip knot leaving the stitch you just made on the left needle. You should now have two loops on your left needle.
Step 3: Insert your right needle under your left needle and between the first two loops on your left needle. Wrap the yarn over the right needle as if you were knitting a stitch, pull the wrap through, and place the loop/stitch you just made on your left needle. One stitch cast on.
*Repeat Step 3 until you have cast on the required number of stitches.

CDD – Central double decrease
RS– Slip next two stitches together as if to knit. Knit 1 stitch. Pass two slipped stitches over the knit stitch.
Two stitches decreased.
WS– Slip next two stitches together as if to purl through the back loop. Purl 1 stitch. Pass two slipped stitches over the purl stitch. Two stitches decreased.

CDI – Central Double Increase
Knit through the back loop of the stitch on the left needle then knit through the front of the same stitch. The two stitches are now on the right needle. Insert the tip of the left needle from back to front through the vertical strand between the two stitches on your right needle. Knit into the back loop of this strand. Two stitches increased.

Judy’s Magic Cast On Tutorial
Photos
Video

K1w/b — Knit 1 with bead
Slide a bead up to your right needle and knit the next stitch. A single bead is placed on the stitch while knitting it.

K2tog — Knit 2 together (right slanting decrease)
Knit the first two stitches on left needle together as you would one stitch.
One stitch decreased.

K2tog Tbl — Knit 2 together through back loop (Left slanting decrease)
Knit the first two stitches on left needle together as you would one stitch working through the back loops.
One stitch decreased.

K2tog-k1 – Knit 2 together then k1 in same
k2tog & leave st on left needle, knit into 1st st again & slip both sts off needle.

K3p – Knit 3 pass
Knit 3 stitches as normal. Pass the first of these 3 stitches that you knit (it will be the 3rd stitch from your right needle tip) over the other 2. One stitch decreased.

K3tog — Knit 3 together (right slanting decrease)
Knit the first three stitches on left needle together as you would one stitch. Two stitches decreased.

K3tog Tbl — Knit 3 together through back loop (Left slanting decrease)
Knit the first three stitches on left needle together as you would one stitch working through the back loops.
Two stitches decreased.

Kf&b — Knit front & back
Knit into the front of the first stitch on left needle as normal. Without removing stitch from needle, knit again into the back loop of the first stitch on left needle. One stitch has been increased.

Kitchener Stitch: Reverse Stockinette
Step 1: Thread a tapestry needle with the long tail at the end of your knitting, or use another length of matching yarn.
Step 2: Divide your stitches evenly between 2 needles and hold needles parallel to each other.
Step 3: Insert tapestry needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to purl. Pull yarn through leaving the stitch on needle.
Step 4: Insert tapestry needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl. Pull yarn through leaving the stitch on needle.
Step 5: Insert tapestry needle into the first stitch on the front needle knitwise. Pull yarn through and slip stitch from needle.
Step 6: Insert tapestry needle in next stitch on the front needle purlwise. Pull yarn through and leave the stitch on needle.
Step 7: Insert tapestry needle into the first stitch on the back needle knitwise. Pull yarn through and slip stitch from needle.
Step 8: Insert tapestry needle in next stitch on the back needle purlwise. Pull yarn through and leave the stitch on needle.
*Repeat Steps 5 – 8 until all sts have been grafted together. When you have 2 sts left work Step 5 & then Step 8. Fasten off and weave in end.

Kitchener Stitch: Stockinette
Kitchener stitch is used to create a seamless look in your knitting. The most common place to find it used is the toe of a sock.
Step 1: Thread a tapestry needle with the long tail at the end of your knitting, or use another length of matching yarn.
Step 2: Divide your stitches evenly between 2 needles and hold needles parallel to each other. Make sure the RS of the fabric face out and both needle tips point in the same direction.
Step 3: Insert tapestry needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to purl. Pull yarn through leaving the stitch on needle.
Step 4: Insert tapestry needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit. Pull yarn through leaving the stitch on needle.
Step 5: Insert tapestry needle into the first stitch on the front needle knitwise. Pull yarn through and slip stitch from needle.
Step 6: Insert tapestry needle in next stitch on the front needle purlwise. Pull yarn through and leave the stitch on needle.
Step 7: Insert tapestry needle into the first stitch on the back needle purlwise. Pull yarn through and slip stitch from needle.
Step 8: Insert tapestry needle in next stitch on the back needle knitwise. Pull yarn through and leave the stitch on needle.
*Repeat Steps 5 – 8 until all sts have been grafted together. When you have 2 sts left work Step 5 & then Step 8. Fasten off and weave in end.

Kitchener: Seed Stitch
Thread tapestry needle with a length of Color A approximately 3 times longer than the width of your scarf.
Place the provisional cast on stitches on an extra needle (or on one end of your circular needles).
Hold needles parallel with the tips facing in the same direction and wrong sides together.
Insert tapestry needle through first st on the front needle as if to knit. Leave it on the needle. Then insert tapestry needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl. Leave it on the needle.
Insert tapestry needle through first st on the front needle as if to purl. Slip off.
Insert tapestry needle through first st on the front needle as if to purl. Leave on.
Insert tapestry needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit. Slip off.
Insert tapestry needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit. Leave on.
Insert tapestry needle through first st on the front needle as if to knit. Slip off.
Insert tapestry needle through first st on the front needle as if to knit. Leave on.
Insert tapestry needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl. Slip off.
Insert tapestry needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl. Leave on.
Repeat steps 5–12 until all stitches have been worked.

K2tog Stretchy Bind Off
Knit 2, *place 2 stitches back on left needle and knit together through back loop. 1 stitch remains on right needle. Knit 1; repeat from * until all sts have been bound off. Fasten off last stitch.

Knitted Bind Off
Knit the first two stitches on left needle together to decrease one stitch. Place the stitch you just made back on the left needle. Repeat this process until only one stitch remains. Cut yarn and fasten off last stitch.

Knitted Cast On
1) If you’re just beginning, place a slip knot on your left hand needle.
2) Insert your right needle into the slip knot or first stitch on your left needle and work a knit stitch
but do not slip the original stitch off of the left needle).
3) Place the knit stitch you just created on the left needle. (This is now the first stitch.)
Repeat steps 2 & 3 until you’ve cast on as many stitches as necessary.

KWB – Knit with bead
1) Insert crochet hook through hole of bead.
2) Use hook to catch the next stitch on the lefthand needle.
3) Slide bead off crochet hook and onto stitch.
4) Place stitch back on lefthand needle.
5) Knit stitch as normal.

Link Cable
slip the next 2 stitches to cable needle #1 and hold in back. Slip the next 2 stitches onto cable needle #2 and hold in front. Knit 2 from left needle. Knit 2 from cable needle #2. Knit 2 from cable needle #1.

LT — Left Twist
Knit into the back loop of the second stitch on the left needle then knit into the front of the first stitch on the left needle. Let both stitches drop from left needle.
Alternately, transfer one stitch to cable needle and hold front. Knit 1. Knit 1 from cable needle.

LTP — Left twist purl back
Slip one stitch to cable needle and hold front, purl one stitch, knit stitch from cable needle.

M1 Lifted Increase
Pick up the bar running between the stitch on your left and right needle. Place it on your left needle front to back. Knit it through the back loop.
One stitch increased.

M1 — Make 1
Pick up a stitch from the row below the working stitch on the left-hand needle.
On a RS/knit row: Knit into this stitch.
On a WS/purl row: purl into this stitch from the back.
One stitch increased.

M1R — Make 1 right
This increase causes the new stitch to slant to the right.
Knit through the back of the stitch one row below the first stitch on your left needle. Knit the next stitch through the back loop.
One stitch has been increased.

M1L — Make 1 Left
This increase causes the new stitch to slant to the left.
Knit through the left leg of the stitch one row below the first stitch on your right needle.
One stitch increased.

M1P — Make 1 Purl
Pick up a stitch from the row below the working stitch on the left-hand needle. Purl into this stitch from the back.
One stitch increased.

MC3— 3 Stitch Mock Cable
Skip 2 stitches and insert right needles as if to knit into front of 3rd stitch. Take this loop on the point of the needle across the front of the 2 skipped stitches, so this stitch now appears to be first, knit stitch as normal. Then slip the 3rd stitch off the left needle over the 2 skipped stitches. Knit 2.

Mock Cable
RS: Skip 2 stitches and insert right needle as if to knit into front of 3rd stitch.
Take this loop on the point of the needle across the front of the 2 skipped stitches, so this stitch now appears to be first, knit stitch as normal. Then slip the 3rd stitch off the left needle and over the 2 skipped stitches. Knit 2.

Nupp
Knit front and back twice into next stitch on left needle. You now have 4 stitches on your right needle. Working from right to lefthand side, pass 1st, 2nd, then 3rd stitch that you just made over the 4th stitch (closest to tip of needle). No stitches have been increased.

P1tbl – Purl 1 through the back loop
Insert tip of your right needle knitwise (from left to right) through the back loop of the stitch to be purled. Wrap yarn over right needle as with purling and pull through stitch. This creates a twisted stitch that will show on the reverse side of your worked as a twisted knit stitch.

P2tog — Purl 2 together
Purl the first two stitches on left needle together as you would one stitch.
One stitch decreased.

P2tog Tbl – Purl 2 together through the back loops (left slanting decrease on RS)
Purl the first two stitches on the left needle together working through the back loops.
One stitch decreased.

P3tog — Purl 3 together
Purl the first three stitches on left needle together as you would one stitch.
Two stitches decreased.

Pf&b — Purl front and Back
Purl into first stitch on left needle as normal. Leave stitch on left needle. Purl into the back of this same stitch. Drop stitch from left needle.
One stitch increased.

Picot Bind Off
Step 1: Cast on 2 stitches using cable cast on.
Step 2: Bind off 4 stitches.
Step 3: Move last bound off stitch from right needle to your left needle and cable cast on 2 stitches.
Step 4: Bind off 4 stitches
*Repeat Steps 3 & 4 until all sts have been bound off.

PB – Place Bead
Insert tip of crochet hook into bead. With the bead on the crochet hook, use the hook to remove the first stitch on the left needle and slide the bead from the hook down onto the stitch. Replace the stitch on the left needle. The bead should be resting on the stitch under the left needle. Knit this stitch.

Provisional Cast On
To work the provisional cast on you will need a piece of smooth scrap yarn.
Step 1: Hold your scrap yarn and working yarn together and make a slip knot. Place the knot on your needle and tighten.
Step 2: Hold your needle in your right hand.
Step 3: *Move the working yarn in front of and under the waste yarn then in front of and over the needle.*
Repeat from * to * until you have the required number of loops of working yarn on the needle. End by moving the working yarn in front of and under the waste yarn. Make sure you have an equal number of stitches around the waste yarn as you have on the needle.

The loops around the waste yarn look impossibly large and sloppy, but after you replace them on the needles and work a row or two in the opposite direction you’ll see that it actually doesn’t show at all.

RT – Right Twist
Knit into the second stitch on the left needle then knit into the first stitch. Drop both stitches from the left needle.
Alternately, transfer one stitch to cable needle and hold back. Knit 1. Knit 1 from cable needle.

RTP — Right twist purl back
Slip one stitch to cable needle and hold back, knit one stitch, purl stitch from cable needle.

Sewn Bind Off
Cut yarn at least 3 times longer than circumference to be bound off. Thread a tapestry needle.
Step 1: Insert tapestry needle & pull yarn through first 2 stitches on left needle as if to purl.
Step 2: Insert tapestry needle knitwise through first stitch on left needle. Pull yarn through and remove first stitch from needle. One stitch bound off.
*Repeat steps 1 & 2 until all stitches have been bound off.

Skp — Slip, knit, pass (left slanting decrease)
Slip one stitch knitwise from left to right needle, knit one stitch, pass slipped stitch over stitch you just knit.
One stitch decreased.

Sk2p — Slip, knit 2 together, pass
Slip first stitch from left needle to right needle. Knit 2 stitches together. Pass the slipped stitch over last stitch made the k2tog.

Slip WYIB – Slip with yarn in back
Move working yarn to the back (away from you). Slip 1 stitch from the left as if to purl (but don’t work, just move it to your right needle). Bring the yarn to the front (toward you). There is now a strand or “float” of yarn across your stitch(es) on the side of the fabric that is facing away from you.

Slip WYIF – Slip with yarn in front
Move working yarn to the front (toward you). Slip 1 stitch from the left as if to purl (but don’t work, just move it to your right needle). Move yarn to the back (away from you). There is now a strand or “float” of yarn across your stitch(es) on the side of the fabric that is facing you.

Ssk — Slip, slip, knit (left slanting decrease on RS)
Slip first stitch as if to knit, slip second stitch as if to purl. Place stitches back on left needle and knit both stitches together through the front loops. OR keep stitches on right needle, insert left needle into the front of the loops and then knit the stitches using the right needles (by wrapping the right needle as normal and pulling through the loops. One stitch has been decreased.

Ssp — Slip, slip, purl (right slanting decrease on WS/left slanting on RS)
Slip first stitch as if to knit, slip second stitch as if to knit. Place both slipped stitches back on the left needle and purl them together through the back loops. One stitch has been decreased.

St st — Stockinette Stitch
Working flat (in rows): Knit on the right side of work and purl on the wrong side of work.
Working circular (in rounds): Knit every round.

T2R — Twist 2 Right
Place one stitch on cable needle and hold back, knit one stitch, knit one stitch from cable needle.

T2RP — Twist 2 Right Purl
Place one stitch on cable needle and hold back, knit one stitch, purl one stitch from cable needle.

T2L — Twist 2 Left
Place one stitch on cable needle and hold front, knit one stitch, knit one stitch from cable needle.

TBL — Through back loop
Knit or purl through back loop of stitch on left needle as indicated.

Work in established pattern
This is a very literal instruction and means keep doing exactly what you have been doing. If you have just worked a round of k2, p2 ribbing and now your pattern is telling you to “work as established” then you will continue working rounds of 2×2 ribbing until instructed to do otherwise. Essentially you will knit the knits and purl the purls as you see them.

W&T – Wrap and turn
On the purl side: THE WRAP: Move the yarn to back/WS of the fabric. Slip the first stitch from the left needle purlwise to the right needle, but do not work it. Move the yarn to the front (so it comes to the RS between the first stitch on the left needle and the one you just slipped. Move the slipped stitch back to the left needle without working it. THE TURN: Turn your piece in order to work the next row.

On the knit side: THE WRAP: With the yarn held to the front (facing you/WS of fabric) slip one stitch purlwise from the left to the right needle without working it. Move the yarn to the back (away from you/RS of fabric). Move the slipped stitch back to the left needle without working it. THE TURN: Turn/rotate your piece 180º so you’re ready to work the next row.

YO – Yarn Over
Wrap the working yarn from back to front around your right needle. Work the next stitch as directed in pattern. One stitch has been increased. Essentially you’re just adding an extra loop to your work. This increase will show as a whole/eyelet in the knitting. It is the most common type of increase for lace patterning.

YS – Yarn Over Slip
With yarn in front, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn to back over the top of the needle.